Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions)

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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions)

Released: Aug 6, 2019

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle?

9:42 - Question #2 - Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated...and supporting my longevity in climbing?

16:12 - Question #3 - How many exercises can I include in an alactic energy system training session for developing maximum strength and power?

22:30 - Question #4 - I've read about the Tabata training protocol and I'm wondering what you think of applying it to hangboard training...by alternating 20-second hangs with 10 seconds of rest?

27:50 - Question #5 - I'm new to climbing and I feel that my weak fingers are a limiting constraint. Do you agree with the common rule of "no hangboard training in the first year of learning to climb"?

32:44 - Question #6 - I've been on a ketogenic diet for the past 3 weeks, and I feel terrific! What's your opinion the ketogenic diet and what are the pros and cons for a climber?

42:05 - Question #7 - I recently injured (mild pain) both of my middle fingers on a tweaky move. I've been doing light stretching and very light exercise to help support healing--what other things can I do to accelerate the healing process?

Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage >> Listen to Podcast #36 on the vital topic of tendon trainng and health, and what you can do to improve tendon and ligament pulley strength and endurance.

NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.