TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes
Date: November 4th, 2015
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About Will Anglin
Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also a prolific climber himself, having sent V13 and 5.14.
He has a lot to say about training, and this was a dense conversation (in the best way possible).
What we talked about: The importance of strength training Difference between strength and power His weekly training schedule during 50-60 hour work weeks Whether or not you should train to exhaustion Why he thinks using a weight vest during campusing is "safer" than not Who should be campusing Why he does weighted pull ups and why you should maybe not Things We Mentioned Will's website Tension Climbing (coming soon) Will's article on finger strength training I'm doing nutrition consults one-on-one with people again on a limited basis. If you're interested, email neely@trainingbeta.com Discount on ArmAidIf you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works.
We wrote a glowing review about it here. Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!
Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com. Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo CreditThanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon Cardwell.
Thanks for listening!